The Adventures of Team H

First, the fine print: We returned safely home on Jan 12. We ran out of blogging steam - and much spare time - in Innsbruck and thereafter. We'll try to fill things in now, but of course, it just isn't the same telling the tales after the fact from home.

Innsbruck

We were amazed how quickly the trip had changed when we crossed the border by rail into Austria. The new snow-covered landscape was expected, but the overall tranquility we found in the Innsbruck area was a welcome surprise after all the bustle in Italy. We checked in to our delightful hotel, after getting some beyond-the-call-of-duty navigational help from the city bus driver (who patiently listened to my "broken German") as well as one of his patrons, who spoke perfect English.

At this point though, we had to take stock: Plans were still not firmed up for the remainder of the trip. Partly this was because I was still hashing out a plan with my Mom's long-time Austrian penpals, Tony and Traudi, to meet them in Salzburg for lunch the next day. But that evening just a few hours later, I had firmed up our next two nights in Austria - and again, with the help of enthusiastic assistance from the locals (our hotel staff).

Mountain view at dawn, Innsbruck

Taking a rental car (Mercedes!), I drove us out to Salzburg, with plans to meet the penpals for lunch at 1:30 pm. Somewhat regrettably, we had to make fast time, and so we took not the most scenic route through Austria, but the one that stays on the Autobahn and shortcuts through the little corner of Germany (which I was told is known as Deutsche Ecke). This drive was actually quite scenic and fun in its own right, but I wish we hadn't missed Zell am See and so many other sights in Austria.

View from an Austrian rest stop

Salzburg

Impossibly, we made it to our appointment in Salzburg, locating not only our friends, but the train station and a parking space nearby. For the next few hours they gave us a charming tour of downtown, also treating us to lunch and coffee at "Thomaselis", which is apparently a local favorite. They practiced English, and I got some good practice with German in turn. They had to drive back home to Vienna that evening, so we parted company, and Lauren and I remained downtown for some more wandering and window-shopping.

Downtown Salzburg with Mom's penpals

Salzburg

Salzburg Fortress

Posing at a viewpoint on the way out of the fortress

The View! Salzburg and mountains

Over the next couple of days we did a lot of sightseeing. We hiked up to the impressive Salzburg fortress (we are told, the best preserved midevil fortress in Europe) and enjoyed spectacular mountain and city views from the top. We also took the 4-hour "Sound of Music" bus tour - a veeery touristy experience of course, but quite relaxing, especially after all the walking and hill-climbing we'd been doing up to then.

But meanwhile, it was becoming clear that a scratchy throat I had felt back in Venice wasn't just some second-hand smoke, as I'd hoped it was. Yep, a full blown cold or flu with fever. After about 10 hours lying under two blankets back at the room, the fever broke and I was starting to get back on the mend.

Austria, we hardly knew you...

In the end, there was much more we wanted to see in Austria, but no more time to do it. In spite of feeling rushed and dealing with a bug, this place was truly enjoyable and full of surprises. It's on our short list of places to visit again (but perhaps in a warmer month next time)