The Adventures of Team H

First, the fine print: We returned safely home on Jan 12. We ran out of blogging steam - and much spare time - in Innsbruck and thereafter. We'll try to fill things in now, but of course, it just isn't the same telling the tales after the fact from home.

Innsbruck

We were amazed how quickly the trip had changed when we crossed the border by rail into Austria. The new snow-covered landscape was expected, but the overall tranquility we found in the Innsbruck area was a welcome surprise after all the bustle in Italy. We checked in to our delightful hotel, after getting some beyond-the-call-of-duty navigational help from the city bus driver (who patiently listened to my "broken German") as well as one of his patrons, who spoke perfect English.

At this point though, we had to take stock: Plans were still not firmed up for the remainder of the trip. Partly this was because I was still hashing out a plan with my Mom's long-time Austrian penpals, Tony and Traudi, to meet them in Salzburg for lunch the next day. But that evening just a few hours later, I had firmed up our next two nights in Austria - and again, with the help of enthusiastic assistance from the locals (our hotel staff).

Mountain view at dawn, Innsbruck

Taking a rental car (Mercedes!), I drove us out to Salzburg, with plans to meet the penpals for lunch at 1:30 pm. Somewhat regrettably, we had to make fast time, and so we took not the most scenic route through Austria, but the one that stays on the Autobahn and shortcuts through the little corner of Germany (which I was told is known as Deutsche Ecke). This drive was actually quite scenic and fun in its own right, but I wish we hadn't missed Zell am See and so many other sights in Austria.

View from an Austrian rest stop

Salzburg

Impossibly, we made it to our appointment in Salzburg, locating not only our friends, but the train station and a parking space nearby. For the next few hours they gave us a charming tour of downtown, also treating us to lunch and coffee at "Thomaselis", which is apparently a local favorite. They practiced English, and I got some good practice with German in turn. They had to drive back home to Vienna that evening, so we parted company, and Lauren and I remained downtown for some more wandering and window-shopping.

Downtown Salzburg with Mom's penpals

Salzburg

Salzburg Fortress

Posing at a viewpoint on the way out of the fortress

The View! Salzburg and mountains

Over the next couple of days we did a lot of sightseeing. We hiked up to the impressive Salzburg fortress (we are told, the best preserved midevil fortress in Europe) and enjoyed spectacular mountain and city views from the top. We also took the 4-hour "Sound of Music" bus tour - a veeery touristy experience of course, but quite relaxing, especially after all the walking and hill-climbing we'd been doing up to then.

But meanwhile, it was becoming clear that a scratchy throat I had felt back in Venice wasn't just some second-hand smoke, as I'd hoped it was. Yep, a full blown cold or flu with fever. After about 10 hours lying under two blankets back at the room, the fever broke and I was starting to get back on the mend.

Austria, we hardly knew you...

In the end, there was much more we wanted to see in Austria, but no more time to do it. In spite of feeling rushed and dealing with a bug, this place was truly enjoyable and full of surprises. It's on our short list of places to visit again (but perhaps in a warmer month next time)

Once again, we've stumbled by chance into an internet cafe (or 'internet point' - in fact there's no coffee here). This one in Venice is the strangest we've seen yet, but the details are not central to the story. So enough about the internet point...

Yesterday we arrived in Venice by rail. Once you get off the train and step out of the station, there it all is - no build-up or suspense - simply what you expect and came to see: the Grand Canal, lined by quant old buildings, trafficked by motorboats and gondolas. Just like the movies, the photographs and paintings.

Gondolas at Dusk

Crossing a typical canal in Venice

The most interesting unexpected impression was the quietness here (albeit New Years Day). There are absolutely no cars or motorcycles anywhere, a charming and welcome realization after Rome and Florence. We bought a map, took the tall footbridge over the canal and found our humble hotel with minimal trouble.

At this end of the city the tourists were sparse, and we felt empowered, able to take on this truly walkable city. We set out that afternoon for St. Mark square located at the other end of town. Initially the map helped. We followed a highlighted path on the map that guided us through dozens of narrow zigzag stone-paved streets past some churches, statues, pizza joints and shops along the way. Then, we discovered, an hour or two later, we were still going along like this, zigzagging, now joined by more tourists, mostly European and American window-shoppers. We gradually gave up on the map and started relying on signs and arrows. Night fell, and we continued. At least once, we went in a circle. More small canal crossings, statues and churches and piazzas - dozens maybe? At least 2 statues of St. Bartholemew, it seemed. Finally we arrived (with everybody else) at St. Marks square and the waterfront.

St. Mark's Square

Church in scaffolds, from our water taxi

Like in Rome and Florence, much of the area seems to be under winter season renovation, creating eyesores where impressive monuments should be. But we found the perfect condition of the buildings here to be suitably impressive. We walked the waterfront and passed vendors, games and a circus like atmosphere. At last it got cold and we headed back.

Ah, if it were only that simple... We tried that night to retrace our steps. Several hours and one shameful Burger King stop later, we finally made it back to the hotel. (Pictures and videos will be up asap)

Today, having had our fill of the inner streets, we took the water taxis around and visited the nearby island of Murano (where we even got a glass pendant or 2). This place was a bit more laid back, conducive to strolling. Funny though, a whole island of almost nothing but glass shops.

Time to sign off. Tomorrow at 6:51 am is our train to Innsbruck.

Etruscan Ampitheatre Ruins

Pathway through the ruins

The last day in Florence, we braved the bus system to get outside the city center, up to Fiesole, for the afternoon. Fiesole is famous for its Etruscan ruins and supposedly cooler climate, which wasn't really a draw, seeing as how we were already freezing. Nevertheless, the thinner crowds, relatively open spaces, and expansive views were definitely worth the trip.

The museum at the Etruscan ruins site emphasizes that Fiesole is not necessarily the only site where the Etruscans lived, but that red tape keeps other sites from being excavated. We saw the ruins of a temple, some baths, etc. As with a lot of sites in Italy, there wasn't much information about what we were looking at, but the ruins were situated in an exceptionally peaceful place so we stayed for a while and mainly enjoyed the place as you would a park.

At that point, we were starting to peter out and desperately required some rest, which is why this entry is extremely short.

Etruscan Temple Ruins

Roman Bath Ruins